Patek Philippe Tiffany
Lifestyle · 13 min

Patek Philippe i Tiffany. Wyjątkowe partnerstwo na szczycie

Dwie wielkie wojny, istotne przemiany gospodarcze, nowe idee polityczne, rewolucja cyfrowa – świat zmienił się w ogromnym stopniu, odkąd 170 lat temu Patek Philippe i Tiffany nawiązały współpracę. Ich porozumienie przetrwało jednak próbę czasu, a w ostatnich latach marki nawet zacieśniają więzi. Współpraca Patka i Tiffany’ego jest czymś dziś praktycznie niespotykanym. Zobacz, jak wyjątkowe relacje łączą legendy świata zegarków i jubilerstwa.

Wieloletnia współpraca

Patek Philippe i Tiffany oficjalnie nawiązały współpracę w 1851 roku, zaraz po symbolicznym otwarciu wspólnego biznesu Antoniego Patka i Adriena Philippe’a. Jubiler stał się pierwszym dystrybutorem, który oferował zegarki marki w Stanach Zjednoczonych. Ale w rzeczywistości czasomierze Patek Philippe trafiały do butików Tiffany’ego już wcześniej. Historia szwajcarskiej manufaktury sięga nieco dalej. W 1839 roku dwaj imigranci z Polski – Antoni Patek i Franciszek Czapek – założyli przedsiębiorstwo Patek, Czapek & Cie. Po sześciu latach wspólnej działalności ich drogi rozeszły się. Wtedy do Patka dołączył Adrien Philippe, a nazwa manufaktury została zmieniona na Patek Philippe. Historia Tiffany & Co. jest zresztą niewiele dłuższa – firma powstała w 1837 roku w Nowym Jorku.

Do spotkania Antoniego Patka i Charlesa Lewisa Tiffany’ego na amerykańskiej ziemi doszło najpewniej w 1849 roku. Panowie prędko doszli do porozumienia, a do jego potwierdzenia wystarczyła podobno umowa ustna potwierdzona uściskiem dłoni. Od tego czasu obok złotych kolczyków i pierścionków wysadzanych drogimi kamieniami można było kupić też luksusowe zegarki prosto z Genewy. Tak rozpoczęła się współpraca, która trwa już 170 lat. Dzisiaj Tiffany & Co. jest jedyną zewnętrzną marką, której logo może trafić na tarczę zegarka Patek Philippe. Niemniej nie jedyną w historii. Na przełomie XIX i XX wieku szwajcarska manufaktura kooperowała też chociażby z brazylijskim jubilerem Gondolo & Labouriau. Nawiasem mówiąc, to od niego wzięła się nazwa linii zegarków Patek Philippe Gondolo.

Pierwszy taki butik

Współpraca pomiędzy markami Patek Philippe i Tiffany dodatkowo zacieśniła się w 2008 roku. Szwajcarzy otworzyli wtedy swój pierwszy butik w Stanach Zjednoczonych. Ten znalazł się w niezwykle prestiżowej lokalizacji – we wnętrzu flagowego salonu Tiffany’ego przy nowojorskiej Fifth Avenue. Zlokalizowany na półpiętrze elegancki butik zajmuje powierzchnię 280 metrów kwadratowych. Znajdziesz w nim zegarki z aktualnej kolekcji, a także specjalne egzemplarze wypożyczone z genewskiego Patek Philippe Museum, które podkreślają wspaniałe dziedzictwo marki. Czasomierze manufaktury z dodatkowym logotypem jubilera można kupić również w salonach Tiffany’ego w Beverly Hills, Honolulu i San Franciso.

W związku z otwarciem pierwszego salonu w Stanach Zjednoczonych Patek Philippe zorganizowało specjalną wystawę – The Values of a Family Watch Company. Można było ją obejrzeć jedynie w dwóch miejscach, a były nimi butiki Tiffany’ego w Nowym Jorku i w Beverly Hills. Nigdy wcześniej manufaktura nie pokazała poza granicami swojej ojczyzny tak obszernej kolekcji historycznych zegarków, co doskonale podkreśla charakter współpracy z amerykańskim jubilerem. Przy pomocy takiej ekspozycji chciano ukazać filozofię, wartości, dziedzictwo i innowacyjność marki.

Siła dwóch marek

Patek Philippe jest naturalnie niejedyną manufakturą zegarkową, która zdecydowała się na współpracę z inną uznaną marką. W świecie zegarmistrzowskim takie porozumienia są znane od wielu, wielu lat, choć ostatnimi czasy tracą na popularności. Wystarczy spojrzeć na Rolexa, który również ma na koncie współpracę z Tiffanym, a także z innym cenionym jubilerem – Cartierem. Łączenie sił z takimi partnerami w przeszłości było dla wielu manufaktur zegarmistrzowskich sposobem na szerszą sprzedaż i popularyzację wyrobów. Ich zegarki mogły dotrzeć tam, gdzie marki nie mogły jeszcze postawić własnych butików. Porozumienie Patka i Tiffany’ego w istotny sposób wpłynęło na rozpoznawalność szwajcarskiej manufaktury za oceanem. A ponad 50-letnia kooperacja z Gondolo & Labouriau przyniosła wielkie zyski. Zegarki sprzedane przez brazylijskiego jubilera odpowiadały za około jedną trzecią całej produkcji Szwajcarów w tamtym czasie.

Zobacz także: Piramida prestiżu zegarków.

Dzisiaj Patek Philippe nie może narzekać ani na brak kanałów sprzedaży, ani na małą popularność. Współpraca z Tiffany’m ma w dużej mierze charakter wizerunkowy. A zegarki oznaczone dodatkowym logotypem zyskują wyjątkowy charakter i cieszą się dużym zainteresowaniem klientów. „Dla mnie najbardziej wyjątkowe jest to, że kupujesz nie tylko historię Patek Philippe, ale też wspólną historię Patka i Tiffany’ego, która jest zapisana na tarczy tego zegarka. Dla ludzi, którzy kochają zegarki i kochają Tiffany’ego, to coś zupełnie magicznego” – tak fenomen zegarków sygnowanych przez obie marki tłumaczył w 2012 roku dla portalu Hodinkee Thierry Stern, prezes Patek Philippe.

Wyjątkowy charakter oznacza wyższą wartość kolekcjonerską. Dobrym przykładem może być sygnowany przez Tifanny’ego egzemplarz Patka 5711/A Nautilus, który w 2018 roku trafił na aukcję domu Phillips. Choć był to świeży egzemplarz, zakupiony zaledwie kilka miesięcy wcześniej, zlicytowano go za 125 tys. franków szwajcarskich. To około cztery razy więcej, niż rynkowa cena modelu w tamtym czasie. Takiej kwoty nie spodziewali się nawet przedstawiciele domu aukcyjnego – wartość zegarka szacowano na 40-60 tys. franków.

Wyjątkowe zegarki Patek Philippe i Tiffany

Patek Philippe i Tiffany zdają sobie doskonale sprawę z mocy, jaką stwarza połączenie ich nazw. Dlatego co jakiś czas – i ku wielkiej radości kolekcjonerów – wspólnie tworzą specjalne czasomierze. Tak było choćby w 2001 roku, kiedy obie marki świętowały 150. rocznicę nawiązania współpracy. Do sprzedaży trafił wtedy specjalny, limitowany do 150 egzemplarzy model T 150. Zegarek wyposażono w kopertę z żółtego złota oraz mechanizm z rocznym kalendarzem i wskaźnikiem faz księżyca.

Natomiast pod koniec 2012 roku z okazji nadchodzącego pięciolecia nowojorskiego butiku zaprezentowano specjalny Ref. 5396G. Zegarek również dysponował rocznym kalendarzem i – jak przystało na dzieło jednej z najlepszych marek zegarmistrzowskich w historii – zwracał uwagę doskonałymi detalami. Kopertę wykonano z 18-karatowego, białego złota, a czarna tarcza z indeksami w formie cyfr arabskich odróżniała go od typowego 5396G. Czasomierz wyposażono w przejrzysty, szafirowy dekiel, który ukazywał mechanizm. Otaczał go ponadto specjalny grawer z napisem „Patek Philippe – A Shared Vision – 2008-2013 – Tiffany & Co.” podkreślający współpracę obu marek. Napis Tiffany & Co. Znalazł się naturalnie również na tarczy zegarka, niemal w jej w centrum, tuż obok wskaźnika faz księżyca. Specjalny model był dostępny wyłącznie w butikach Tiffany’go i został wyprodukowany jedynie w liczbie 100 sztuk.

Logo Tiffany & Co.” otrzymują nie tylko specjalne, jubileuszowe modele. W ofercie amerykańskiego jubilera znajdziemy obecnie 10 zegarków Patek Philippe z dodatkowym napisem na tarczy. To czasomierze z linii Calatrava, Twenty~4~ , oraz Complications. Co ciekawe, specjalne oznaczenia są zwykle umieszczane na tarczach zegarków już na miejscu, w Nowym Jorku. Niemniej nawet tusz wykorzystywany do ich wykonania pochodzi prosto ze Szwajcarii. Współpraca ma jednak swoje ograniczenia. Patek Philippe bardzo rzadko wyraża zgodę, by symbol Tiffany’ego trafiał na tarcze zegarków z najbardziej skomplikowanymi mechanizmami, chociażby tymi z linii Grand Complications.

Kelly Yoch – władca zegarków Patek Philippe & Tiffany

Nie sposób dziś mówić o współpracy marek Patek Philippe i Tiffany bez wspomnienia o Kelly Yoch. Yoch była jednym z pierwszych konsultantów zatrudnionych w butiku Patka przy Fifth Avenue. Choć tytuł jej stanowiska – Senior Patek Philippe Consultant for North America – brzmi dosyć zwyczajnie, jest kimś o wiele więcej niż tylko doradcą czy sprzedawcą. Kelly Yoch ma wyjątkowy dar do rozkochiwania klientów w zegarkach szwajcarskiej manufaktury i bardzo dba o ich potrzeby. Łączy rzadkie zegarki z najlepiej pasującymi do nich posiadaczami. Zna marzenia swoich klientów, a niektórym sama podsuwa czasomierze, które jej zdaniem najlepiej do nich pasują. Czasami jest w stanie wywalczyć z pozoru niedostępny egzemplarz. A w tych klientach, których zachcianek akurat nie jest w stanie spełnić, podtrzymuje nadzieję i pasję do zegarków szwajcarskiej manufaktury.

Yoch od pierwszego spotkania utrzymuje kontakt ze swoimi klientami. Rozmawia z nimi przez telefon, wymienia SMS-y czy spotyka się na bankietach. Istnieje podobno nawet grupowy czat, na którym ponad setka jej klientów dyskutuje o zegarkach i wymienia się swoimi najnowszymi nabytkami. W ten sposób jedni motywują innych do poszerzania swoich kolekcji. Kelly Yoch ma ogromny posłuch wśród kolekcjonerów. Dla wielu jest wyrocznią. A ponieważ to ona decyduje, do kogo trafiają wyjątkowe egzemplarze, wielu chce wkupić się w jej łaski. Podobno przedstawicielka Tiffany’ego cieszy się tak dużą sławą wśród posiadaczy zegarków Patek Philippe, że kiedyś użyta przez nią wykałaczka trafiła na aukcję na eBay’u. I nawet przyciągnęła licytujących!

Niepewna przyszłość?

Prawie 170-letnia współpraca marek Patek Philippe i Tiffany jest tak wyjątkowa, jak oferowane przez nie wyroby. Nie jest jednak pewne, czy w kolejnych latach nadal będzie przebiegała bez zakłóceń. W 2019 roku amerykański jubiler został kupiony za kwotę 16 miliardów dolarów przez grupę LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy), do której należą takie marki zegarkowe jak Hublot, Bulgari czy TAG Heuer. W zegarmistrzowskim świecie natychmiast pojawiło się pytanie, jak taka zmiana wpłynie na dalsze stosunki Patka i Tiffany’ego. A warto wiedzieć, że dziś dochód ze sprzedaży zegarków stanowi zaledwie ułamek wpływów amerykańskiego jubilera.

fot. Horobox

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  • droversointeru
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  • Popyt na zegarki jest powiązany z pewnymi zjawiskami ekonomicznymi. Pewne zjawiska sprzyjają popytowi pewne nie.

    • Jakub Roskosz

      To jest oczywiste. Popyt na jakiekolwiek dobra materialne zawsze jest związany z „pewnymi zjawiskami ekonomicznymi”. Nigdy nie było inaczej :))

      • Chodzi mi o obecną sytuację. Ze swoich źródeł wiem, że branża zegarkowa wiele traci. A jak są straty to ktoś musi za to zapłacić. Oczywiście klient. Zegarki zamiast tanieć będą drożeć.

        • No nie wiem czy traci. Sprzedaż dóbr luksusowych utrzymuje się na podobnym poziomie jak przed pandemią. Ludzie wyciągają gotówkę z banków i lokują w dobra luksusowe, mieszkania, zegarki. Tracą może odpustowe marki, a nie luksusowe.

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