Kultowe marki: Loro Piana
Loro Piana to luksusowa włoska marka specjalizująca się w produkcji wysokiej jakości odzieży z kaszmiru i wełny. Jakbym miał wybrać jedną, jedyną markę, w której musiałbym się ubrać od stóp do głów, byłaby to właśnie Loro Piana. Oczywiście abstrahując od tego, że najpierw musiałbym zostać miliarderem. Dlaczego akurat ta marka przypadła mi tak do gustu?
Powodów jest co najmniej kilka, i nie jest wśród nich fakt, że lubię drogie rzeczy (kto nie lubi?), jestem snobem etc. Mam nadzieję, że po lekturze tego tekstu pewnie doskonale zrozumiecie, skąd u mnie tak duży zachwyt kolekcjami Loro Piana.
Zacznę od tego, że wszystkie produkty wykonane są ręcznie we Włoszech, z możliwie najlepszych surowców dostępnych na całym świecie. Coś co w XXI wieku wyróżnia Loro Pianę na tle nawet najbardziej luksusowej konkurencji, to fakt, że marka jako jedna z nielicznych na świecie od początku do końca w 100% kontroluje proces produkcji swoich wyrobów. Zaczynając od wypasania owiec, po tkanie materiałów, na pakowaniu produktu klientowi kończąc. Ale po kolei.
Historia i Tradycja
Marka Loro Piana została założona w 1924 roku przez lokalnego handlarza wełny Pietro Loro Piana, jednak sama rodzina Loro Piana zajmowała się handlem wełną oraz innymi luksusowymi tkaninami już od początku XIX wieku.
Po II Wojnie Światowej kuzyn założyciela – Franco Loro Piana, przejął kontrolę nad firmą, rozwinął i wprowadził na rynki zagraniczne, wielokrotnie zwiększając obroty. Obecnie marka handluje ultra luksusowymi tkaninami pochodzącymi z najróżniejszych źródeł na świecie, od Australii i Nowej Zelandii, po Himalaje i Andy. Z tkanin Loro Piana korzystają najbardziej luksusowe marki na świecie m.in. Kiton, Brioni, czy słynni krawcy i krojczy z Savile Row.
W 2013 roku 80% udziałów marki Loro Piana za 2 miliardy euro kupił francuski koncern LVMH, do którego już należą takie marki jak: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Celine, Moet, Hublot, Loewe, Kenzo, Givenchy, Fendi, czy Berluti. 20 proc. akcji zostało w rękach Sergio oraz Pier Luigi Loro Piana, spadkobierców założycieli firmy.
“The Long Journey of Excellence”
Slogan marki Loro Piana doskonale oddaje jej charakter. Każdy produkt Loro Piana wykonywany jest ręcznie w manufakturze we Włoszech z najwyższej możliwej jakości tkanin. Materiałem, z którego wykonywanych jest ponad 50% kolekcji ubrań jest baby cashmere, czyli super delikatny rodzaj kaszmiru, który wyczesuje się z bardzo młodych kóz kaszmirskich (od razu uspokajam obrońców zwierząt – przy wyczesywaniu zwierzęta nie cierpią – to naturalny zabieg). Wełna z młodych zwierząt jest jeszcze bardziej szlachetna, delikatna, pożądana, ale też dużo droższa. Jednak to nie baby cashmere zapewnił tak ogromną sławę tej marce. Loro Piana na całym świecie słynie z kolekcji ubrań wykonanych z najdelikatniejszej i najbardziej luksusowej wełny na świecie – z andyjskiej wikunii. Ceny kilograma tej wełny niejednokrotnie na czarnym rynku przewyższały cenę… złota! W najsłynniejszym butiku tej marki w Mediolanie spotkałem się z płaszczem wykonanym z tej wełny. Zrobił na mnie niesamowite wrażenie. Delikatności tej wełny, nie da się porównać z niczym innym na świecie – wprawia w osłupienie. To zupełnie nowe doświadczenie. Za które trzeba też słono zapłacić. Wspomniany płaszcz kosztował, uwaga… 100 tysięcy euro! I dam sobie głowę uciąć – z pewnością nie czekał długo na swojego właściciela. Najdroższe w ofercie tej marki i tak są wnętrza… luksusowych jachtów i samolotów.
Z realnym produktem klient może spotkać się jedynie w butiku marki. Loro Piana dzięki takiemu zabiegowi ma pewność, że klient może zobaczyć produkt jedynie w butiku, przy pomocy kompetentnej obsługi, w wyjątkowych wnętrzach, gdzie sam może ocenić jakość tkanin. Po takim doświadczeniu nie sposób nie zakochać się w produktach tej marki. Zazwyczaj jednak jest to miłość nieszczęśliwa, bowiem produkty należą do naprawdę bardzo drogich. Ciężko w butiku znaleźć rzecz, która kosztuje poniżej 500 euro, gdy już się ją znajduje, okazuje się, że to… breloczek. Garnitur to wydatek ok. 5 tys. euro, a za sweter przyjdzie nam zapłacić minimum tysiąc euro. Gdy już jesteśmy przy wikunii…
The Doctor Franco Loro Piana Reserve
W związku z tym, że wełna z wikunii była niesamowicie pożądana, często zwierzęta te padały łupem kłusowników i nielegalnych handlarzy. Gorączka jaka panowała na wełnę z andyjskiej wikunii sprawiła, że zwierzętom w połowie XX wieku groziło całkowite wyginięcie.
W 1984 roku rodzina Loro Piana stworzyła z rządem Peru specjalny program ochronny tych uroczych (prawda?) zwierząt. Założono w Andach rezerwat im. Dr Franco Loro Piana. Dzięki czemu marka Loro Piana zapewniła odpowiednią ochronę tym zwierzętom, ale też otrzymała… monopol na pozyskiwanie najdelikatniejszej i najdroższej wełny na świecie. Dzięki takiemu zabiegowi Loro Piana już zawsze będzie kojarzona z wikunią.
Ciekawostką jest, że z każdej dorosłej wikunii uzyskuje się tylko około 300 gramów wełny. Dla porównania. Z kozy do 10 kg wełny rocznie.
Loro Piana Wool World Record Challenge Cup
Loro Piana raz do roku organizuje zawody na najdelikatniejszą i najcieńszą wełnę na świecie. Na Wool World Record Challenge Cup zapraszani są właściciele hodowli owiec z całego świata. Zwycięzca konkursu ma zagwarantowaną umowę na wyłączność sprzedaży wełny Loro Pianie, a Loro Piana ma gwarancję, że żaden konkurent nie będzie miał lepszej wełny. Z najlepszej wełny na świecie każdego roku produkowanych jest jedynie 50 ultraluksusowych garniturów, a ich właściciele są znani szybciej, zanim marka dowie się, kto wygra konkurs.
Nowa definicja luksusu
Loro Piana posiada 132 butiki na całym świecie zlokalizowanych w topowych, prestiżowych lokalizacjach – centrach miast i słynnych ulicach. Butiki Loro Piana znajdziemy m.in. w Centrum Cannes, Genewy, Moskwy, Paryża, St. Moritz, St. Tropez, Nowego Jorku, Las Vegas, San Francisco, Tokio, Pekinu, Dubaju, czy Singapuru. Firmowy butik znajduje się w głównym miejscu słynnej ulicy Via Montenapoleone w Mediolanie, zajmuje całą 4- piętrową kamienicę, jest jednym z najokazalszych i najpiękniejszych w jakich kiedykolwiek byłem. Punkt obowiązkowy do odwiedzenia podczas wizyty w Mediolanie.
Ciekawostką jest, że doradca klienta musi znać min. 3 języki, dress code i ich zachowania są ściśle określone, a na całym świecie panują te same standardy obsługi klienta. Doradcy klienta Loro Piana otrzymują jedne z wyższych wynagrodzeń w branży, jednak ich wypłaty nie są uzależnione od indywidualnego obrotu! Klient bowiem nie może poczuć się nakłaniany do zakupu, a niestety tak zazwyczaj jest, gdy sprzedawca jest „na prowizji”.
Nie tylko genialnej jakości produkt wyróżnią tą markę, ale również sposób w jaki się ona reklamuje i komunikuje z klientami. Nie znajdziemy bilbordów na ulicach wielkich miast, agresywnych reklam w Internecie, szokujących kampanii, pokazów mody, wkładek w magazynach, reklam na blogach, ogromnych profili w social mediach (ha, nawet ja mam więcej fanów na Facebooku…), nie znajdziemy też logotypów, emblematów i napisów na ubraniach tej marki. Patrząc na dane ubranie widać jedynie… niesamowitą jakość.
Loro Piana robi to inaczej. Głównymi akcjami organizowanymi przez markę są wyjątkowe na skalę światową eventy. Np. dla właścicieli luksusowych jachtów i łodzi raz do roku organizowane są czterodniowe zawody na Karaibach – Loro Piana Caribbean Superyacht Regatta. Podczas Regat marka promuje kolekcje ubrań Storm System oraz wnętrza Yacht Interiors. Loro Piana jest też głównym sponsorem zawodów dla pasjonatów jeździectwa – Loro Piana World Equestrian Games, oraz Loro Piana Classic Car Team- wyjątkowego wyścigu dla właścicieli zabytkowych samochodów.
Już wiecie dlaczego to moja ulubiona marka? Jaką markę powinienem opisać w kolejnym wpisie z cyklu „kultowe marki”?
fot. loropiana.com
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Bardzo udany wpis, tylko trochę za krótki :). Chciałoby się poczytać więcej o takiej marce…
Bardzo podoba mi się pewna rzecz, a mianowicie nieepatowanie metkami. Osobiście nie lubię takiego poobwieszania się markowymi ciuchami tak, aby każdy wiedział ile pieniędzy ma się na sobie. Dużo bardziej przemawia do mnie taki nienachalny luksus.
I przy okazji: czy Ermenegildo Zegna też przypadkiem nie kontroluje całego procesu produkcji?
Następna marka: może Brioni?
Tak Zegna również kontroluje w podobny sposób cały proces. Brioni z pewnością się pojawi, ale na niego jeszcze przyjdzie pora :-).
Jestem w stanie wiele zrozumiec ale plasz za 100 k euro to juz jest chore !!
W zasięgu marzeń :))
Morze w końcu Hermes?
Może 🙂
Wkrótce i jego czas 🙂
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Bardzo udany wpis. Przyznam się, że nie znałem tej marki wcześniej… proponuję Zegna.
Wkrótce będzie Zegna.
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