Zestaw koordynowany z Atelier Zabłotny
Kilka miesięcy temu na łamach tego bloga miałem okazję recenzować usługę szycia garnituru bespoke w Atelier Zabłotny (link). Dzisiaj prezentuję zestaw koordynowany w całości uszyty w tej samej pracowni. Która realizacja bardziej Wam się podoba?
Co ciekawe- dokładnie ta sama krata już na blogu się pojawiła, tylko w zupełnie innym kolorze. Pamiętacie garnitur Spicco w sesji z Alfą Romeo? (link). Obie tkaniny pochodzą z tego samego próbnika Scabal, jedyne czym się różnią to kolorem. Choć oczywiście trzeba przyznać, że realizacje same w sobie znacząco od siebie odbiegają. Co tylko świadczy o tym, jak krój, detale wykończeń i kompozycja reszty stylizacji ma wpływ na odbiór konkretnego jego elementu. Długo zastanawiałem się, czy z bordowo/fioletowej tkaniny nie odszyć również spodni, jednak w pracowni jednomyślnie stwierdziliśmy, że w tym kolorze, zdecydowanie lepiej będzie się prezentować w zestawie koordynowanym, o większym kontraście pomiędzy spodniami i marynarką. Kolejnym argumentem za tym wyborem był fakt, że spodnie w jednolitym kolorze zdecydowanie częściej będę mógł używać do innych zestawów. Jako, że staram się budować swoją garderobę na bazie rzeczy uniwersalnych, które można używać na wiele sposobów postawiłem tym razem na zestaw koordynowany.
Zestaw koordynowany z Atelier Zabłotny
Zestaw koordynowany, czyli marynarka i spodnie w innym kolorze. Bardzo często niestety takie zestawienie, źle skomponowane wygląda jakbyśmy zapomnieli spodni garniturowych do kompletu z marynarką. Żeby uniknąć takiego efektu należy marynarkę i spodnie zestawić ze sobą na zasadzie wysokiego kontrastu. Szczególnie ważny jest ten zabieg, gdy zarówno marynarka i spodnie są z jednolitej, gładkiej tkaniny (klasyczny zestaw koordynowany składa się z jasnoszarych spodni i granatowej marynarki). W tym wypadku postanowiłem uszyć spodnie pod kolor kratki i dobrać dodatki tak, aby nawiązywały do reszty stylizacji. Dzięki temu ten zestaw prezentuje się bardzo spójnie. Nie bez znaczenia są również detale wykończeń marynarki, które zmniejszyły jej poziom formalności- nakładane kieszenie w kształcie kielicha, brak podszewki, czy niezwykle okazały- podwójny AMF. Należy również zwrócić uwagę na piękne guziki z masy perłowej, oraz wysoko ułożoną kozerkę. Ci bardziej spostrzegawczy zwrócą również uwagę na klapy wycięte po delikatnym łuku na zewnątrz. To bez dwóch zdań mój ulubiony detal tej stylizacji, a uszyta marynarka jedną z najpiękniejszych w garderobie.
Diabeł tkwi w szczegółach
Zestaw koordynowany uzupełniają spodnie w kolorze kratki z równie wspaniałymi detalami wykończeń- wysokim stanem, podwójnym zapięciem bocznym, brakiem szlufek, wysokimi manszetami, czy kontrą przy pasie. Zostały uszyte z wełny od Scabal z guzikami na szelki.
Koszula również została uszyta w Atelier Zabłotny, z tkaniny Royal Oxford, z niezwykle pięknym kołnierzykiem, którego wyłogi zostały wycięte po delikatnym łuku. Na lewym mankiecie zostały umieszczone moje inicjały w kolorze złotym.
Krawat to kilkudziesięcioletni Hermes wykonany z drukowanego jedwabiu. Niezwykle piękny, świetnie zachowany, kolekcjonerki model kultowej marki Hermes. Więcej o tych krawatach dowiecie się z mojego video (link).
Zestaw uzupełniają oxfordy z Patine Line Shoepassion (link). Czyli buty wykonane metodą Goodyear Welted, które są ręcznie malowane – w tym wypadku na kolor burgundowy. I trzeba przyznać, że wyglądają naprawdę wspaniale. Patynowanie dodaje „pazura”, jest swojego rodzaju kropką nad „i” stylizacji. I uwierzcie- jeszcze piękniej prezentują się na żywo. Dostępne tutaj (link).
Jak Wam się podoba ta stylizacja? Która krata bardziej przypadła Wam do gustu zielona, czy bordowa?
fot. Paweł Witkowski
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Zestaw koordynowany z Atelier Zabłotny – Jakub Roskosz
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aizteyiwrp
Zestaw jest Ok. Ale nr 1 to jest zegarek !! IWC „portugalczyk” – klasa sama w sobie. No i w jego cenie można sobie sprawiś pewnie z 5 takich zestawów 🙂
Witam Panie Jakubie, mam pytanie odnoście personalizacji koszuli, a mianowicie jaki jest Pana stosunek do wyszywania inicjałów na rękawach? czy według Pana warto tylko na jednym z nich je wyszyć? jeśli tak to na którym? Ewentualnie może na obu? są może znane dobre praktyki w tym temacie?
witam, świetny zestaw – mogę prosić o info odnośnie szelek ?
Niezły ten zestaw! Sam bym chciał taki mieć. Tylko nie wiem, czy miałbym gdzie w nim chodzić 😉
Thanks a lot for the article post.Much thanks again. Fantastic.
Super zestaw! Świetna marynarka!
Czy to ta tkanina na marynarkę?
https://fabrics.scabal.com/en/catalogue#/product-detail/852617
Tak
Świetny zestaw, kolory robią swoje i świetnie współgrają ze sobą. Podoba mi się bardziej od zielonego. Jaka cena całego zestawu?
4900 pln z koszulą
Mały edit, nie podliczyłem spodni- bliżej 6700. Przepraszam!
Świetny zestaw. Marynarka i buty pierwsza klasa. Czuję, że kupię te buty. Rozważam czarne.
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